DIY Inspection Tips
Do-It-Yourself Inspection Tip #1 (HVAC): Plastic Dryer Vent
While performing home inspections, it is quite common that we find a foil or white vinyl vent being used for the dryer exhaust. These materials are a fire hazard and should be replaced with a non-combustible metal vent. If you do not know what material is currently being used with your dryer, you can check by simply looking behind it - for most dryers the vent will be connected near the bottom in the middle.
Do-It-Yourself Inspection Tip #2 (Exterior): Siding Clearance
Regardless of what type of siding you have on your house, it is important that there is at least 4 to 6 inches of clearance between the siding material and the ground. When the siding is too close to the ground it is easy for water to be wicked into the wall system, which can cause rot damage to the wood frame structure of the walls. Low siding allows easier access into the wall system for insects, which is why this is also very important for areas with wood-destroying organisms.
The solution is to remove the bottom rows of siding until adequate clearance is achieved and rearrange elevated gardens away from the house wall.
Do-It-Yourself Inspection Tip #3 (Plumbing): Water Heater TPRV
An important component of your water heater is the Temperature/Pressure Relief Valve. This is usually located on the side of the tank near the top. The purpose of this valve is to prevent a steam explosion by releasing water if a malfunction occurs that causes excessive pressure or temperature in the tank. This valve should have a copper or PVC discharge pipe attached to it, extending down to approximately 6 inches above the floor. This is to prevent scalding if it does release hot water at high pressure.
It is common for the discharge pipe to be missing. Installation is simple, and the pipe itself is a low-cost item available at your local hardware store.
Do-It-Yourself Inspection Tip #4 (Interior): Bathroom Fan
It is a common misconception that bathroom ventilation fans are primarily to get rid of odors. Actually, their main purpose is to remove humidity, which is why they should be present and operable in all full bathrooms (having a tub or shower). Whenever you have a shower, the fan should be turned on for the duration and left on for at least 30 minutes afterward.
If there is no fan in your full bathroom, it is highly recommended that one be installed (and used) to prevent excessive humidity in your home, which can lead to concealed rot damage and fungal growth issues.
Do-It-Yourself Inspection Tip #5 (Insulation): Exposed Rigid Foam
Exposed rigid foam insulation is a major fire hazard. It can be white, blue or pink (as there are different types with different R-values), commonly found in basements and attached garages. This is an excellent form of insulation, however, if it were to catch fire this material produces a lot of very toxic smoke, which can quickly debilitate a person before they have a chance to leave the house.
If you find this insulation exposed in your home, we strongly recommend either removing it completely or installing drywall over it for safety.
Do-It-Yourself Inspection Tip #6 (Roof): Overhanging Tree Branches
Tree branches that overhang a roof cause two particular problems. 1) Debris from the branches obstructs gutters, causing them to overflow and deposit water near the foundation wall. This can result in significant damage to the foundation over time, especially when the wet soil freezes and exerts a large amount of pressure on the foundation wall due to expansion of the freezing soil. 2) Shade provided by the branches as well as debris falling onto the roof cause premature deterioration of the roof covering itself by decreasing its "drying potential" (ability to dry after becoming wet), and causing moss growth to occur - which expedites deterioration further.
If possible, tree branches should be trimmed back away from the house allowing at least 2 to 3 feet of clearance from the roof and gutters horizontally.
Do-It-Yourself Inspection Tip #7 (Electrical): Wires In Contact With Metal
In unfinished basements it is common to find electrical wiring in contact with metal ducts and/or gas and water pipes. Wiring in contact with any of these items always has risk of the wire casing wearing down over time due to abrasion (especially if in contact with sharp edges of any kind) because metal expands and contracts with differences in temperature. If the live wires inside the casing are exposed, any metal in contact with them will also become electrically live, which is a life safety hazard because ducts and pipes are almost always directly or indirectly connected with metal components that we have immediate access to in the living space (faucets, fixtures, heating registers, vents, etc).
The solution is to simply place some regular fiberglass insulation between the wires and the metal components to prevent contact.
Do-It-Yourself Inspection Tip #8 (HVAC): Dryer Vent Under Deck
A dryer vent discharging directly below a deck tends to cause premature deterioration of the deck frame and sheathing due to moisture. If you find the dryer exhaust terminating under your deck, we recommend rearranging the vent to discharge to the side of the deck or at least 3 feet below the deck frame, if its configuration allows.
Do-It-Yourself Inspection Tip #9 (HVAC): Inadequate Clearance
It is common to find that a metal vent connector (chimney) for the furnace and/or water heater is too close to combustible materials - in this respect, drywall counts as combustible. The necessary clearance depends on what type of fuel is being used by the appliance: gas fuel requires at least 6 inches, oil needs 9-18 inches and wood-burning appliances are 24 inches minimum.
If you find combustible materials too close to a vent connector and the material itself cannot be removed, a simple solution is to install a heat shield to prevent a fire hazard.
Do-It-Yourself Inspection Tip #10: Non-GFCI Outlets
Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter (GFCI) outlets are designed to keep you safe while using electricity in areas where exposure to water is likely, particularly bathrooms and the house exterior. In houses built prior to 1990 it is common to find non-GFCI outlets in these areas. GFCI outlets can usually be identified by two buttons on the outlet itself (Test / Reset). It is a low-cost improvement to replace existing outlets in bathrooms and outside the home with GFCI.
Do-It-Yourself Inspection Tip #11: Insufficient Grade Slope
The ground around your house should slope down and away from the foundation structure to allow adequate drainage and prevent damage caused by water saturating the soil and exerting excessive pressure on the foundation wall. It is very common to find that the ground slopes in toward the house, or is too flat. If you get down low and look at the ground horizontally, you want to see a discernible slope away from the house. Technically there should be at least a 1-inch slope per foot of distance within 5-7 feet of the structure. It can be slightly less for impervious surfaces like concrete or asphalt.
If the ground is too flat or has a negative slope, re-grading would be a good idea - even if no foundation issues have presented yet (significant foundation movement is often extremely expensive to repair). If space around the house does not allow for conventional re-grading, a qualified contractor can offer other drainage solutions to compensate.
Do-It-Yourself Inspection Tip #12: Openings In Breaker Panel
It is quite common to see that "knockouts" in the front or sides of the breaker panel have been removed for breakers or wiring, and some of the openings remain unfilled. This is a life safety hazard because it allows immediate access to electrically live components inside the panel. Imagine the power goes out, the room is dark - so you might feel around the panel to locate the breakers. This can easily become fatal if you manage to touch something inside the breaker box.
If these holes are present, does that mean you need a new breaker box? Not at all. Low-cost plugs designed to fill these openings are available at your local hardware store.
Do-It-Yourself Inspection Tip #12: Missing / Loose Handrails
Check all the stairs inside and outside your home. Anything with three or more steps should have a handrail, and any edge with more than a 24-inch drop should have a guardrail. All existing rails should be tight and secure so they can support saving someone from a fall, and missing rails should be installed as this is both a safety and liability issue.
Do-It-Yourself Inspection Tip #13: Foundation Form Tie Holes
If enough foundation wall is visible around the exterior of your home, you will find form tie holes. These are a normal result of constructing the foundation wall. In northern climates these small holes are known leakage spots, especially in spring while the snow is melting. It is common to find that these holes have not been sealed - also, sometimes nails or broken shards of steel remain extruding from some of these holes, which is a child safety hazard.
We recommend sealing visible form tie hole openings to prevent water intrusion, and grinding down any sharps extruding from them for child safety.
Do-It-Yourself Inspection Tip #14: Condensation / Ice On Windows
In cold weather you might find condensation forming on the interior of windows, sometimes resulting in ice build-up. This happens for two reasons: 1) the interior pane of glass is very cold, and 2) there is excessive humidity in the house air. When moisture in the ambient air comes into contact with a cold enough surface, the moisture will condense from a gas to a liquid - forming droplets of water on that surface. If the window is cold enough, those droplets will freeze. This is more common to find on single-pane windows, or double-pane windows with a broken seal, which greatly reduces the R-value associated with having two panes of glass. The condensation itself can cause rot damage to the window frame, which is expensive to repair. Also, the condensation pointing toward excessive humidity poses a concern on its own, as humidity and moisture can create issues with concealed mold growth.
To prevent rot damage to the window frame, you can install plastic over the window - but it needs to be dry when you do this (you may need to spend some time with a blow-dryer), or fungal growth will occur. The plastic will act as a "vapor barrier", which prevents moisture in the air from contacting the cold glass in the first place. Here is an instruction video on how:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-ZokMVGHpXI
To address the humidity issue and prevent mold growth, you want to address the sources of humidity as much as possible, and use ventilation. Here are a few things you can do:
1) If you have an earth-floor crawlspace, install plastic over it as soon as possible (moisture from the soil entering the house air can amount to gallons of water every day).
2) If you have a sump pit in the basement, make sure it has a sealed cover.
3) Use the bathroom fan when you have a shower, and leave it running for at least 30 minutes afterward. Install a fan if you do not currently have one.
4) Use the hood vent when cooking (arrange it to vent outside if it does not - often they re-circulate air back into the kitchen).
5) Do not hang-dry laundry in the house.
6) Purchase a stand-alone dehumidifier.
Do-It-Yourself Inspection Tip #15: Masonry Chimney Deterioration
When inspecting masonry chimneys, it is common to find "spalling" (masonry surface flaking or crumbling) and mortar joints cracking or falling out altogether. It is also common to find that the concrete top ("coping") has cracked. This damage is usually caused by freeze/thaw cycles - water being absorbed into the masonry components, freezing and expanding in cold weather, and then thawing and contracting in warm weather. Damaged masonry may allow water to infiltrate into the home, and also can result in structural collapse of the chimney once it becomes severe enough.
If you have a masonry chimney and it is showing any signs of damage, we recommend a qualified contractor repair it to prevent water entry and further deterioration.
Do-It-Yourself Inspection Tip #16: Furnace Shut-Off Switch
Every furnace should have an emergency shut-off switch (usually looks like a light switch). It is common to find this located at or near the furnace because this configuration is easier to wire, but it should be located at the bottom of the basement stairs or entrance into the area (if there is no basement). If the furnace is malfunctioning, you should not have to go near it to shut it down.
Find your shut-off switch. If it is located near the furnace or is not installed at all, we recommend a licensed professional evaluate and estimate rearrangement for safety.
Do-It-Yourself Inspection Tip #17: Shrubs
Shrubs planted too close to your home pose three issues. 1) The roots may hold water against the foundation wall, which can cause damage (especially when the soil freezes), 2) they may provide cover for a burglar if planted near a window, and 3) they can cause abrasion damage if in contact with the siding (due to movement from wind).
We recommend replanting shrubs and bushes at least three feet away from the house to help prevent these issues.
Do-It-Yourself Inspection Tip #18: Service Line
For homeowners who have an above-ground electrical service (power line running from a pole at the street to a mast on the house), it is important to keep an eye on any adjacent trees. Tree branches should never be in contact with the service line itself because movement of the branches can cause abrasion damage to the wires, potentially exposing the bare wire inside the cable. If the tree contacts a live bare wire, it can become electrically live itself, which is a life safety hazard.
If tree branches are in contact with the service line (or are quite close), we recommend improvement by a qualified professional for safety. Contact your municipality for information - the city is usually responsible for the service line up to the point of connection to the house itself.
Do-It-Yourself Inspection Tip #19: Guardrail Child Safety Hazards
Check the existing railings inside and outside your home. The spindles (vertical components) should not be spaced more than 4 inches apart. Also, look for "climbable" components - horizontal sections should be limited to the very top and very bottom of the spindles. Wide spacing and climbable components are common child safety hazards and should be improved immediately if present.
Do-It-Yourself Inspection Tip #20: Exterior Wood Trim
Be sure to maintain exterior wood trim and siding materials by painting every 3 to 4 years. Paint helps the wood resist deterioration caused by exposure to water and UV-rays. This is especially important for wood windows because once they rot, they have to be replaced.
Do-It-Yourself Inspection Tip #21: Attached Garage Gas-Tightness
If your garage is attached to your home and you use it to park vehicles, it is very important that the walls and ceiling common with living space are gas-tight. Look for penetrations, holes, unsealed joints or gaps and uncovered air ducts running through the garage. These may allow Carbon Monoxide from vehicle exhaust into the home, which is a life safety hazard.
If it appears your garage is not gas-tight, we recommend you do not use it to park your vehicle until a qualified contractor has made improvements to make it safe.
Do-It-Yourself Inspection Tip #22: Smoke/CO Detectors
Look for smoke detectors in your home. How many do you have? If you have a gas-fired furnace and/or water heater (most homes do), or an attached garage, you should have an absolute minimum of one Carbon Monoxide Detector and one Smoke Detector on each floor. Usually there will be an expiration date sticker on the detectors, check to see if yours need to be replaced. We also recommend testing once per month for safety. Combination detectors (both smoke and CO) are available at your local hardware store.
Do-It-Yourself Inspection Tip #23: Missing Junction Box Covers
Junction boxes, outlets and switches are all designed to contain a connection (or multiple connections) in the electrical wiring of your home. It is common to find missing covers for these components, which is a life safety hazard.
If you find any open junction boxes, outlets or switches, we recommend adding covers immediately to prevent touching electrically live components.
Do-It-Yourself Inspection Tip #24: Cracking Stucco
Stucco is a cement-based siding material that is effective at resisting water infiltration into the home. The problem with that is, if water does get into the wall, it is often very difficult for it to dry out and can cause rot damage to the structure.
If you have stucco siding, check closely for any cracking - especially around doors and windows. Very fine cracks can often be sealed by painting the wall. Larger, more visible cracks need to be patched with sealant designed for that use, and significant deterioration or damage (usually found at exterior corners) should be repaired by a qualified contractor.
Do-It-Yourself Inspection Tip #25: Missing Sealant
One of the most common maintenance issues to find while inspecting a house exterior is missing or inadequate caulking. Usually we find this at windows and penetrations such as hose bibs and vents. Check these areas - if sealant is present, push on it to see if it is still doing its job. Sometimes it appears to be sealed, but the caulking is old or the wrong type and no longer adhered properly, just sitting in place.
Water is the #1 enemy of houses. We recommend maintaining exterior caulking/sealant to prevent issues related to concealed rot damage and fungal growth.
Do-It-Yourself Inspection Tip #26: Drainage Pipe Slope
The plumbing drainage system in your home uses gravity to deliver waste water to the main house drain. Because gravity is the key, it is important that there is a slight downward slope of the horizontal sections of pipe - they should not be perfectly level, and never slope against the direction of flow.
Check under the sinks in your home and look at horizontal sections of pipe in the basement if they are exposed. You want to see a slight (but visible) slope going in the direction of drainage. If any sections are sloped in the wrong direction, it is usually due to improper installation and should be repaired to prevent drainage issues that can lead to flooding or leakage. This would typically be a very simple fix.
Do-It-Yourself Inspection Tip #27: Missing/Inoperable Exterior Lights
One very simple thing that homeowners should check for is the presence and operation of exterior lights. There should be one operable light per entrance into the home - especially if there are stairs in the area.
If there is an entrance with no light, we recommend a qualified contractor make improvements for your safety and security.
Do-It-Yourself Inspection Tip #28: Handrail Width
The whole purpose of a handrail is to help prevent you from falling. If the handrail is difficult to grab onto, it probably won't be very effective at its job. It is very common to find that the handrails for decks are simply a 2x4 or 2x6 board laid on its side, which is much wide than it should be.
If this is the case at your home, a simple solution is to add on a regular handrail.
Do-It-Yourself Inspection Tip #29: Missing Traps
A "trap" is a half-circle portion of the drainage pipe that is designed to always hold some water in order to create a seal in the drainage system, which prevents sewer gases from entering the home through drains. The most visible and accessible traps are found below sinks.
Check below the sinks in your home. If no trap is visible, you can send us a picture to verify if you need a licensed plumber to evaluate further.
Do-It-Yourself Inspection Tip #30: Missing Shut-Off Valves
Each fixture in the house should have shut off valves for both the hot and cold lines in case work needs to be done on that section of supply piping. If no shut-off is present, you may need to shut off all the water to the house in order to perform a repair, which is a convenience issue. There should also be one main shut-off valve for the house supply piping in case of a flooding emergency. You need to know where this is - usually it will be found in the basement or crawlspace near or within an exterior wall. Often panels are used to hide these in finished areas.
Check below sinks and around toilets for isolation (shut-off) valves. Most importantly, know exactly where the main shut-off is located. If this is missing, we recommend improvement by a license plumber to prevent excessive damage in case of a flood.
Do-It-Yourself Inspection Tip #31: Missing / Loose Siding
Water is the #1 enemy of houses. The siding on your home is the first line of defense against water intrusion, which can cause rot damage and resulting structural issues in wood frame construction. Water intrusion will often cause substantial damage before it becomes visible on the interior of the home, which is is why our company includes Thermal Imaging as a standard part of all our Home Inspections.
It is common to find loose or missing siding, especially with vinyl and aluminum applications. We recommend immediate improvement of these issues if present - they are often fairly simple to repair, but also very important for prevention.